A Tree House in the Pyrenees

As the taxi driver was beating it out of the parking lot we looked around and realized we didn’t see any tree houses or anything for that matter.  A couple that was just getting out of their car headed up a trail so we followed not having any better ideas.  A short walk through the woods and we came upon a huge swimming pool and just past the swimming pool a large building known as the ‘farm house’ at ‘Cabanes als Arbus’ (the tree house hotel). 

In the farm house we found reception and a charming girl with weak English but a strong spirit to try.  She asked us to speak slowly and we tried.  Our reservation was confirmed (thank god!) and we would be spending one night in the Tree House by the name of Cabana Mussol (which is some sort of Catalan owl).   Next we were handed what was called our survival basket.  It in was a complete handbook all in Catalonian,  a does and don’ts list in English, a small telescope, two head lamps like miners wear, a walkie –talkie, a key and a map to our tree house. 

Once outside the farm house we took a closer look at our map where the Cabana Mussol tree house was identified by the orange line and markers only to realize it looked like a long walk.  Also a bit concerning at this point was that from the farm house we were not able to see any tree houses.  But off we set down or should I say up the ‘orange trail’ to the Cabana Mussol.  Our orange trail turned out to be about 900 meters straight up hill from the farm house through mountainous terrain.   Apparently tree house adventures are not for the faint of heart or feet.  But we pursued and once we rounded the last bend in the road and saw the tree house itself we were both awed.  The tree houses are very cleverly placed so you never see another one before you see your own.

All of the tree houses are built around a tree and suspended from the tree, there is only a ladder touching the ground that you climb to enter the deck through a trap door.   Okay, we’re tired, hot, and already had one hellava day but this is cool, really, really cool!  Bob struggled with the key a bit but finally he opens the trap door and up we climb onto the deck.  And there we are looking out at the beautiful Pyrenees Mountains!

Each tree house is different as they are designed to complement the tree that carries them.  The Cabana Mussol turns out to be one of the larger ones and is quite roomy by our evaluation.   It has a nice seating area, a dining table, full bed and ensuite sans the running water and electricity.  The no electricity nor running water is done to preserve the environment to the upmost of course but also adds authenticity to the whole adventure.

The interior of the tree house is darling.  It has been designed with every detail in mind and there are many cleverly designed necessities.  The toilet paper holder is a tree branch, there are sweet candle holders everywhere and the vanity has a sink for disposal of water and a pitcher of water for bathing but not drinking.  There are throw pillows on the sofas and the bed providing a splash of color and this brightens the whole room.  The pillows are however a line green in keeping with our complete emersion into nature. 

As soon as we unload our bags and check out the interior we are called to the deck, the absolutely serene and peaceful deck.  From our deck you cannot see any of the other tree houses or the farm house.  In fact all we see is the valley far away and the Pyrenees Mountains.  We just sit there on the deck for a long, long time and quietly absorb where we are.  Each of us with our own thoughts.

As beautiful as the view is and it is, it is not my favorite things about the tree house.  My favorite thing about the tree house is that it sways in the breeze or if we are moving around.  It’s not a major sway but more a gentle sway and I find it amazingly lulling just like a baby cradle.  This will be the memory of the tree house I will always carry with me.

As much as we are enjoying the view from the deck Bob is ready for a beer and has learned from the literature in our survival basket that he can buy them in the farm house.  Back on go the hiking boots but this time we know what we are in for!!  Of course, going down is a delight and we almost skip to the farm house.  Yes, they can sell Bob some beer and at a good price at that.  So Bob buys three beers which they present to him in a basket to carry back to the cabin.  As you can see above it makes quite a picture, Bob traipsing through the woods carrying his beer in a basket!!

Back on the deck we challenge each other to a game of cribbage and enjoy every moment of our swaying tree house.  As the sun is setting we stop our game so we can simply sit and enjoy the beautiful sunset.  After the sun sets it is just too dark to remain outside and we finally go into the tree house and light about twenty tiny candles.   In the morning the owner of the hotel tells us that Cabana Mussol has the best view of the sunsets of any of the tree houses…….he must be right because it was a beautiful view!

I can’t tell you about the tree house without giving special attention to the toilet.  Remember there is no running water in the tree house.  There is however a very discretely placed ‘toilet bench’ behind a nicely hung privacy curtain.  In the middle of this bench is a lined bucket with sawdust in it.  And next to the bench is a large basket of more sawdust with a scoop in the middle.  The idea is once you’ve used the toilet you add additional sawdust to hide whatever it is you’ve done.  Apparently even the bag that lines the bucket is biodegradable and ultimately this all makes a very dandy compost.  At first we thought it a bit off putting but in the end it was actually very civilized.

In the morning breakfast is delivered to the tree house in a basket which is tied to a rope on the ground and left there by whoever delivers it.  When you are ready using the rope pulley you hoist the breakfast basket up onto the deck.  Inside the basket we found juices, rolls and jam, coffee and warm milk.  It was a lot like having a morning picnic in the woods. 

Neither of us wants to leave the tree house.  It has been a unique and unusual experience and we are both pretty sure we’ll never have the opportunity to sleep in a swaying tree house again.  But we have a train to catch and a date with the Dali Museum in Figueres so we must pack up and make our last trip down the path to the farm house.